Messrs Bench:
    Gentlemen. - We arrived here on the 8th inst., in the afternoon, direct from Napa-Hiang, in Loo Choo. We left our anchorage at that place on the morning of the 2nd inst., and had delightful weather on our trip to this port, with the exception of strong winds on the second day out. Our fleet consists of the Susquehanna and Mississippi steamers, and the Saratoga and Plymouth, sloops of war. We went at once up the bay, and came to anchor nearer the shore by two miles than any foreign vessel has ever here before done - of course occasioning much surprise. We were immediately ordered off, but, instead of complying with the notification, Commodore Perry ordered off all the boats surrounding the vessels, and insisted upon it with such right good demonstrations of enforcing the order, that we finally left without the guard of honor which usually attends upon foreign vessels while in harbor. We felt much elated upon this point being conceded, being one of importance and never before yielded by the Japanese.
    After considerable negotiation back and forth between our commander and the authorities on shore, they finally agreed to accept the letter of the American President, which was to be delivered to a special envoy of high rank on shore.
    I should give you full particulars of this and all other occurrences in the harbor, but there are so many detailed descriptions of the affair being prepared on each of the ships composing the expedition, some of which I know will be at your service, that I have thought it best to devote my attention to other subjects. Suffice it to say that we have today delivered our letter, with considerable display, to the officers authorised to receive it, and shall in a few days take our departure, to return for the answer some months hence.
    I have made the best possible use of my time both in taking sketches myself and in procuring sketches from other reliable sources. I send herewith a great variety, from which you can select those considered most interesting. I shall neglect no future opportunities of securing and forwarding to you any reliable sketches which may prove of interest.
    Among my sketches will be one taken on the road to Jeddo, as also one of Imperial City itself. The view of Jeddo is not the one usually given, but it is taken from a different point - showing part of the Palace of the Kobo, which is built in the middle of the city, and which consists of five smaller palaces or castles, and has large gardens and enclosures around and behind it, said to be ten miles in circumference. Jeddo, altogether, is almost forty miles in circumference, and the largest and most populous city in the empire.
    In populousness, activity and bustle, it is said to resemble the great commercial cities of the civilized nations though, I presume, the Japanese consider themselves occupying the very first rank in regard to civilization. A large river runs through the town and encloses the imperial palace, over which there are a number of bridges. Niponbus is the principal bridge - it is also called the bridge of Japan.
    The houses are chiefly constructed of timber and bamboo, in consequence of which the city is frequently visited with terrible conflagrations. In consequence of all the noblemen of the empire being required to live at Jeddo during the entire year, the city contains many fine palaces and gardens. These in connection with the
long ranges of trees, planted along the canals which traverse the city, make Jeddo by far the handsomest city of the empire, as well as the largest although its houses are not of such regular construction as some of the other cities in different provinces.
    Although the horses which we saw were inferior to European or American horses, both in size and apparent spirit, they were of much better breed than those of China. I learned that farther in the interior considerable attention was paid to the growth of fine horses and cattle, and that the vicinity of Wonoga-Take, a mountainous region in the northern part of Niphon, the chief occupation of the inhabitants was that of cattle growing, for which that province offered many unsurpassed facilities in its extensive and luxuriant grazing grounds.
    It appears that on the great yearly festival, called "Sanguate Sanultz," provincial horse races and other pastimes are common. It does not seem that speed is particularly sought among the horses, but endurance fifteen or twenty competitors enter the field, and the horses dash off at full speed. That horse which performs the greatest number of circuits, and is left at a time fixed for the termination of the race, in the best condition, is the winner. One horse may be crowded through a greater number of circuits than another, but if he is thoroughly blown by so doing he does not secure the prize. Hence the riders study to be acquainted with the bottom of their nags, as well as their speed. Racing one horse with another, neck and neck for the supremacy, rarely occurs, and then it is when the horses themselves become excited by each others motions. The riders bend down their heads in order to obstruct the horses as little as possible by catching the wind, but do not pay the same attention to the divestment of robes. By the color and figures of the loose robes worn are known the names of the different horses and riders. It is supposed that the flowing of the robes in the wind excites the horses sufficiently in point of speed. The winner of one race afterwards excluded from competition, in order that new horses may be constantly brought forward. The prize awarded frequently consists of the winning horse in the race, the value of which is fixed upon entering, and payment afterwards contributed by the unsuccessful competitors.
    But however sturdy the Japanese peasantry may be in the management of their horses, and in this respect they seem far interior to other nations, this hardihood does not seem to extend to the nobility or gentry of the land at the present time. Formerly, hunting and hawking among them was a common amusement, but, according to the best accounts, this custom has fallen into disuse. Many of the grandees keep a large, and very frequently a good collection of horses, but do not particularly study any improvement of the breed indeed. Indeed, it seems mostly for display that such a quantity are kept, but few of the horses being habitually used by the owners themselves. The stables are kept excessively neat and clean.
    The carriages used, with which great display is also made, were introduced into Japan by the Dutch, from which copies have been constructed by Japanese artisans. Of course, they are quite clumsy and ill-appointed, compared to the vehicles of the present day. The grandees are also carried in sedan chairs. When they ride on horseback, it is considered out of taste for the owner himself to hold the reins. In processions, the high dignitaries frequently ride while the horse is led by ribbons attached to the bit, the tail being done up in a silk bag of gaudy colors and otherwise bedizened off. If the horse jumps, starts or trots, it is not considered unmanly for the rider to hold on by the saddle, or by anything which offers support.
    Tilting matches appear also a favorite diversion of the Japanese provincials. They provide themselves with short and long rod, with which they go through movements similar to fencing. In some feats three, four, and even five persons participate. The more difficult diversions of this kind seem to be with the long rod, surmounted by a ball with which each player seeks to strike his opponent.

    But the most important of all feats of strength among the Japanese appears to be that of wrestling. Among those who train themselves for this conflict, great muscular power and suppleness of limb is required, and they resort to every possible means for its attainment. It is common for those who desire to become very expert in the art of wrestling to get their companions to bend back their limbs in constrained attitudes, and thus leave the wrestler for hours and hours together, and indeed, in some instances even to dislocate and reset any particular limb, in order to procure the greatest laxity and suppleness at the conflict.
    At ordinary wrestling matches, bundles of manilla, tied up in lengths of about two feet each are laid around upon the ground in the form of a ring. If the wrestler is crowded out of the ring, thrown within the ring, or falls upon any portion of it, or disturbs any portions of it with his foot, he is considered vanquished, and another steps forward to take his place.
    The judge who decides points of disputes in wrestling matches, previous to the encounter steps into the ring. The wrestlers stand back to back and the judge fastens the cord to the elbow of one and the knee of the other. Sundry evolutions are then ordered by the judge, calculated to bring the greatest strain upon the limbs of the wrestlers. If either of the wrestlers falter under this exercise, frequently painful, he is excluded from the ring the other declared victor, and a new contestant ordered forward.
    But the best contested wrestling matches are those which take place before the high officials and court grandees. These are usually contests between the best wrestlers of the empire, and are conducted in a tent in the gardens of the palace of the Kobo, in a retired manner. The prizes are munificent, and the attainment one confers a rank upon the winner much envied by the lower classes, besides a pension from government during his natural life. There is in this instance an outer enclosure besides the inner ring, and disgrace does not finally attach until the one defeated is ejected from the outer enclosure. But, when thrown out from the inner ring, the victor has the privilege, if he can do so quickly enough, to lift the fallen wrestler bodily and eject him. When fallen within the inner ring, this privilege is denied.
    Upon one side of the ring, the outer enclosure is omitted. This is the side towards the raised seats of the dignitaries, and upon this side neither disputants are allowed to step over without forfeiture to both of the right to continue the contest. Upon each post of the enclosure surrounding the ring is tied a blanket, for the purpose of shielding the wrestlers if pitched with force against them. A species of vinegar, mixed with water, is kept in two pails close by the ring, with which the nostrils and mouths of the disputants are occasionally washed.
    Here, wrestling almost assumes the nature of a mortal combat, by its intensity and fierceness. Every nerve is strung to the highest pitch - every muscle strained to its utmost tension - the eyes protrude - the breath grows short - and the whole anatomy of the figure appears marked on the outside of the body, so distinct do the swelling muscles develop themselves to the spectator. Almost frantic efforts are made by each wrestler to lift his opponent by the girdle bodily, in which position he can be easily carried from the ring. In mere strength alone this can easily be accomplished, but the wary antagonist is always careful to prevent it. But a fixed period is allowed for each contest, there before the wrestlers must proceed with some dispatch, but must proceed cautiously as well.
    These trials of strength are said to be intensely exciting, and a source of as much bantering and betting among the Japanese as cockfighting in Cuba, bull-baiting in Spain, or horse racing in America.
    I must here close my letter and have it ready to be forwarded. You will hear from me on my arrival at Hong Kong truly yours,
    M.T.